Africa Wildlife Conservation

Old Nov 12th, 2004, 12:05 AM
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Africa Wildlife Conservation

Since conservation is a common topic around here, a couple things have just dawned on me.

First, however, as a disclaimer, I will be the first to admit that in the past, I have had selfish motives, usually looking for the the very cheapest deals possible at the best possible places, whether they were in areas deeply in need of assistance or not.

I would like, however, to think that I am evolving, and I am now very interested in conservation efforts. I am currently reading both Cry of the Kalahari and Eye of the Elephant, both by Mark & Delia Owens.

Anyway, that brings me to the point of how those of us who are interested in helping may best help. Personally, although I am sure it is a beautiful place, I just don't see how visiting Botswana at $600 pppns lodges is helping matters, when, chances are, these places would be booked anyhow. I mean you have to book 6+ months in advance at many places if you want a realistic chance at getting into a lot of these places.

Instead, wouldn't conservation efforts be helped much further along if conscientious visitors looked a little further off the beaten path than the Okavango Delta, and especially beyond the Sabi Sand Game Reserve and other popular South African reserves such as Phinda and now, increasingly, Madikwe. There must be around 25 lodges in Madikwe now.

There are places that really need help right now. I just learned that Wilderness Safaris shut down Ruckomechi, one of only about six of their Zimbabwe camps. I would be very surprised if they also didn't shut down Linkwasha? in Hwange or at least Little Makalolo. Where is next to shut down, Matusadona Water Wilderness, WS' camp located in Lake Kariba???

I saw this coming yet it was still with great sadness that I read from an agent that Ruckomechi could not accomodate me because it had shut down. All that does is open up the area to poachers, but without the financial support of visitors, it wouldn't make sense to continue to operate the lodge. Meanwhile, people are lining up to pay $1,100 pppns at Mombo and nearly the same rates for Kings Pool and Jao.

After reading the first few chapters of Eye Of The Elephant, about Mark & Delia Owens struggle to stop the poaching of elephants in the North Luangwa, it really made me sit up and take notice. I mean I can book cheap rates all day long in the Sabi Sand by waiting last minute, and it, ultimately, will make very little difference. The Sabi Sand will still get 50,000+ visitors annually with or without me.

Meanwhile there are places like North Luangwa, and I imagine the same may be said about places like Ruaha and Katavi in Tanzania, that really need a few good ecotourists to keep things going, thus keeping both the poachers and the hunters away (the poachers being 100x more destructive).

As a result, I have abandoned any plans to visit Botswana (I am sure the beds will be full anyhow by somebody else) and mostly have abandoned South Africa, with the exception of Simbambili (I really appreciate what Simbambili is doing in conjunction with Taga Safaris on Taga's website, www.tagasafaris.co.za, to promote the awareness of leopards).

Instead, I will revisit Zambia for the third straight year, but I will expand my horizons some by spending my final 4 nights at a place that I feel really needs my support, North Luangwa National Park.

Until Mark & Delia Owens won their battle against poachers (surviving many assasination attempts, before being run out of the country due to the death of a poacher), there were 1,000 elephants being poached each and every year for about 10 straight years. The park, I believe, was down to only a couple thousand elephants. Thankfully, they were able to turn things around and actually gave many of the poachers jobs patrolling the park. Ultimately, as long as these people had food and supplies, they were happy to change their ways. I think in the final year that the Owens were in North Luangwa, only about 12 elephants had been reportedly poaced. That represents 1 elephant per month, as opposed to over 80 per month when they had first arrived.

Today, there are only three seasonal camps in North Luangwa. At 4,636 sq. kms., it is a very respectably sized park, yet only has a total of 24 beds between the three camps.

1 sq. kilometer = 100 hectares, therefore, at 4,636 sq. kms., the North Luangwa measures 463,600 hectares, about seven times larger than the Sabi Sand Game Reserve. I imagine there must be 500 beds in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, making it more than 20 times more populated than North Luangwa.

So, when there are so few beds in a place like North Luangwa, and the camps only run from June 15th - October 31st, a 4.5 month season in total, it is very important that a place like this receives the support of ecotourism, otherwise, instead of continuing to rebound, it will once again fall victim to poachers.

As a result, I am very proud to be concluding my trip with 4 nights at Kutandala, www.kutandala.com, with my party of four persons. The entire camp only sleeps 6 guests, and receives absolute rave reviews (see guest comments).

Although I didn't know any better until recently myself, it still saddens me to see people visiting places that are no longer about conservation but entirely about profit. Unlike Kruger National Park, North Luangwa will not be culling elephants anytime soon (or possibly ever again).

For anybody interested, here is an excellent little article on North Luangwa, and a short history and update of its progress:

http://www.vacationtechnician.com/x/...NAL%20PARK.htm

Anyway, while it is nice to donate a couple hundred dollars here and there, only through sustained ecotourism will places like North Luangwa survive. I mean, really, what is $200, about two hours at Mombo? Instead, by replacing the Mombo's (or Singita's) with a place much more in need, a bigger impact may be made in the conservation effort.

Anyway, I know that not everybody has the luxury of visiting Africa on an annual basis (and I thank God each time I am able to visit), but for those of us that do visit frequently (or for those that may only visit once, but with to make a significant conservation effort), I would urge you to look beyond the Kruger National Park, Sabi Sand Game Reserve and even beyond Moremi (and especially Chobe) and instead look at some less visited parks that really need your patronage, now more than ever.
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Old Nov 12th, 2004, 05:02 AM
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Rocco,

Thanks for the thoughtful post..makes one think twice about where to book.

r/wes
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Old Nov 12th, 2004, 06:55 AM
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Wes,

As you have already seen, since you are also a member over there, here is a link to my itinerary, complete with photographs and my commentary:

http://tagasafaris.mywowbb.com/forum1/23.html

After finding out that Ruckomechi was closed down by Wilderness Safaris, I am doing the next best thing by staying where I believe will not be too far from being right across the river at Kasaka River Lodge, on the Zambian side of the river. Lower Zambezi, although doing okay, could still use more help from ecotourism, and they are making a very conscious effort at conservation.

I just received word from Kasaka that they have REDUCED their 2005 rates from $325 per person per night sharing to $285 pppns. So, while Botswanan lodges are raising rates at 15% per year right now, here is a lodge in a very beautiful area that is still in a sensitive area that needs the patronage of guests and is charging half the rates (or less) of Botswanan lodges. I cannot tell you how beautiful this lodge is, but I will not let them be the next to close down like Ruckomechi.

Anybody even remotely interested please follow the link above, or to go directly to their website, please go to www.kasakariverlodge.com.

Kasaka River Lodge (and other Lower Zambezi camps such as Chiawa and Sausage Tree Camp) will combine very nicely with either Victoria Falls (Livingstone) or South Luangwa and North Luangwa.
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 06:23 AM
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Hi Rocco.

Your info is a bit old. There are 4 tempory bushcamps indide the North Luangwa National Park and one permanent Lodge. The Lodge name is Delia Camp, and you can see it in www.infoafrica.net

Cheers. Mon
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 08:12 AM
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Mon, you must be fair. When Rocco posted this in 2004, you were just clearing the construction site for Delia, weren't you?
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 10:20 AM
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This is an old thread, but are the points raised still valid? How about the suggestions of where to stay?
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 10:49 AM
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Rocco never visited Kutandala, and after his 2nd stay in Lower Zambezi he was a strong promoter of Chongwe River and Chiawa Camp.
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 10:54 AM
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As another option for Zim, check out www.Bushlifesafaris.com . Nick and Desi, with their canoe safaris in Mana Pools are open, and are actively working to minimize/eliminate poaching as far as they can. They have a new, updated website, where you can donate to help out the park rangers with $$ for equipment, clothing vehicles, and most likely manpower hours. The economy is so horrid that I am sure that the rangers are having quite a difficult time surviving on their pay. Additionally Johnny Rodriguez and his group have been shut down by the government(in Hwange I think??)where they were actively preventing poaching, but got into a dispute with government officials. So between a hungry populace, and lack of poaching patrols, the animals are sure to be also having a tough time.
suzi
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 11:31 AM
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Nick and Desi are also represented by Beks Ndlovu's African Bush Camps (www.africanbushcamps.com) who also offer an interesting alternative in Hwange (and even in Botswana).
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Old Apr 9th, 2007, 04:15 PM
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Sorry about my post, Im not very familiar with this Forum, I didnt see the date,,,, hehehe. Sorry again.

Yes Delia Camp and Nkalamo are new, and started operations the 2006.
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