2 Trips to Uganda: my experience

Old Jul 24th, 2017, 03:05 AM
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2 Trips to Uganda: my experience

Hi,

here you find a summary of my experiences & recommendations to organize a trip to Uganda, with:
* A detailed breakdown of expenditures: http://grandescapades.net/grand-esca...ide-to-uganda/
* A selection of my best pictures from both trips: http://grandescapades.net/uganda-201...of-50-pictures
If you want more information, you can check my blog: http://grandescapades.net/guide-to-uganda/

Do not hesitate if you have any question...
Cheers, Gilles

Itinerary And Time Of The Visit
I visited Uganda twice. In August 2011, during 2 weeks, I discovered the string of National Parks in western Uganda, starting with Lake Bunyonyi, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Queen Elisabeth National Park, Kibale Rain Forest, Semliki National Park, Murchison Falls National Park and last but not least Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. The 3rd week, I used Jinja as a base to discover the area.
In January 2017, I spent 2 weeks and refocused on some National Parks (except Bwindi, as I went Gorilla Tracking in Rwanda (http://grandescapades.net/tracking-m...las-uganda/)): Lake Bunyonyi, Queen Elisabeth National Park, Kibale Rain Forest, Murchison Falls National Park & Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary.

Why Travel To Uganda?
Of course, no one would go to Uganda without Tracking Mountain Gorillas and going for a Chimpanzees Habituation, a new but amazing program. Both are the experience of a lifetime! Note that Rwanda decided to double its prices for Gorilla Permits in May 2017 (climbing from 750 USD to 1.500 USD), so Uganda is currently an outstanding option, with Gorilla Permits at “only” 650 USD…
Uganda also takes pride in famous National Parks, like Murchison Falls National Park, Queen Elisabeth National Park, Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, and many others… Those do offer decent game viewing opportunities, but pick the time of your visit very carefully, as some seasons are very poor for wildlife watching, like the short dry season from December to February. And do not expect prices to drop during this time of the year… Local agencies will hide the truth about the best and lesser appropriate moments for game viewing, more interested in short-term business than long-term development…
Most important, do not overlook the actual country and do not spend too much time in the National Parks: Ugandans are very gentle and welcoming, the landscape is unbelievably green & lush, and the hotel / hostel / guesthouse infrastructure is now well-developed, catering for all budgets and offering a good price-quality ratio. Yes, Uganda is a great place for “Beginners in Africa”, though public transports may be challenging…

Challenges In The Organization Of The Trip - What Would We Have Wished To Know?
• First: Decide on what you want to focus on!
As mentioned above, National Parks offer decent game viewing opportunities, but probably not the best in Africa, and in the meantime belong to the most expensive of the continent… Obviously, local operators tend to believe that if “Mzungus” can pay 650 USD for a Gorilla Permit, they can pay anything for the National Parks… With the major difference that Gorilla Tracking is indeed unique, and that Ugandan National Parks simply aren’t…
You should hence maybe not solely focus on National Parks, but also take enough time to discover the actual country… Or better, pay a visit to the great apes (Gorillas & Chimpanzees) and then focus on the country itself, not the National Parks, which will save you tremendous amounts of money…
• Tour operator, car rental or public transport?
All major cities in Uganda are connected by frequent bus services that travel mostly on paved roads. So if you ignore National Parks, you can travel on public transports easily. Note that those can be challenging for inexperienced African-travelers, especially in more remote and rural areas!
Nonetheless, reaching most Nationals Parks in reasonable time and above all, traveling within them requires private transport (and not always a 4WD). Self-driving in Uganda is probably only an option if you are very experienced with bad roads and especially aggressive drivers.
It is possible to rent a car with driver though, for approx. 60 USD a day, and a 4WD will cost you approx. 100 USD a day. Except in the middle of the summer (July & August), very few places are fully booked, so you can decide a few days in advance where you should go, or actually even on the spot…
Worried about permits? Any company can get you a gorilla permit for an extra 50 USD fee (on top of the 650 USD, of course). On a short notice this might be challenging in the high season, but for one or two persons it is not impossible. Chimpanzee permits are much easier to get and can even be arranged at the park itself, without notice.
• Which tour operator?
Back in August 2011, we chose Katona Tours, the cheapest of the expensive options, a two week private tour for 2.900 USD per person for two weeks (that’s 207 USD per day including a Gorilla Permit), including pretty much everything (transport, accommodation, three meals, all permits, park fees). What makes such a trip so costly? Permits and park fees are a big chunk (gorilla permit was 500 USD p.p., two Chimpanzee permits at 100 USD p.p. each, National Park fees 30 USD p.p. per day). On top of that, distances are long and a gas sucking 4WD is necessary for most areas… Their service is all in all ok, they delivered what was promises, but for small minors points.
In January 2017, I was about to give up when I finally found a new agency, TourLand Uganda, who offered me an option that was far cheaper than its competition… 2.200 USD for 9 days (that’s 244 USD per day excluding a Gorilla Permit!!!), which already seems mind-bogglingly expensive, especially since I went Gorilla Tracking in Rwanda and not in Uganda! They delivered what was promised, the driver Emma was really good and motivated, but they surely failed to mention that January was not the best time (by far) to go on game drives!

Highlights Of The Trip
• Mountain Gorillas Tracking in Biwindi Impenetrable National Park: there is nothing more soothing then watching these beautiful creatures…
• Chimpanzees Habituation: spending a whole day with our closest relatives and discovering their daily routine is an amazing experience. Beware that it’s a long day walking through thick jungle, and that a porter is no luxury…
• Watching on foot White Rhinoceros from no more than 10 meters distance at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, one of the few places in Africa where the rhinoceros population is actually growing!
• The frontier town-feel in the fishing village of Butiaba
• Bird Watching In Nyombe Swamp on Lake Bunyonyi
• Tumbling through grade 5 rapids on the Nile
• If visiting during the long dry season (June through August), wildlife watching in Murchison Falls National Park

How To Go Off The Beaten Track?
Just get out of the National Parks, and you will be Off The Beaten Track! There are plenty of opportunities, and all this can be done on a budget.

What Will We Especially Remember?
Check my blog: http://grandescapades.net/grand-esca...ide-to-uganda/
OneYearOff is offline  
Old Jul 24th, 2017, 11:54 AM
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Absolutely fantastic. Your blog. Incredible photography.out of the world. I'm Speechless.
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Old Jul 25th, 2017, 12:11 AM
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Thanks Inquest ! Doing my best to share my passion for travel ;-) And photography !
Cheers, Gilles
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Old Jul 27th, 2017, 10:41 AM
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Thank you Gilles!! I very much agree--Uganda is about so much more than wildlife!
Next trip, if in the Jinja area, head northeast the Sipi Falls area. Paradise!
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